"Até que você é uma negra bonita": modelos expõem casos de racismo na moda 

"Até que você é uma negra bonita". Essa foi apenas uma das frases que a modelo carioca Cindy Reis, de 20 anos, já ouviu durante um trabalho. O tema do racismo nos bastidores da moda voltou à pauta impulsionado pelo movimento Black Lives Matter, surgido nos Estados Unidos com o caso George Floyd, um segurança negro morto por um policial branco.

Na carona de ações virtuais como o Blackout Tuesday, dia em que o feed do Instagram se resumiu a quadrados pretos como forma de protesto antirracista, Cindy e as também modelos Camila Simões, Thayná Santos e Natasha Soares deram início a uma verdadeira exposição de episódios de preconceito sofridos por elas e outros colegas de profissão em castings, desfiles e campanhas.

O tal quadrado preto, que seria um sinal de apoio à comunidade negra, foi compartilhado na rede social por milhares de pessoas mundo afora - incluindo personalidades e marcas. Porém, para alguns, não pegou bem. Os estilistas Glória Coelho e Reinaldo Lourenço, que endossaram a campanha, foram mencionados nos relatos e classificados como "incoerentes".

– Marcas comprovadamente racistas se aliaram ao movimento, mas era visivelmente uma tentativa de marketing em cima de uma causa que eles mesmos desprezam – pontua Cindy, embora sem citar nomes, em entrevista à Donna. 

No começo, éramos só modelos negros, porém, o mercado não é racista só com modelos, não.

CINDY REIS

sobre o movimento "Pretos Na Moda"

A modelo baiana Diara Rosa, 28 anos, deu nome aos bois. Em vídeo publicado em seu Instagram, ela fez um desabafo e lembrou de quando participou de um casting de Reinaldo Lourenço, ainda no início da carreira, que já dura uma década:

– Fui no casting do Reinaldo Lourenço. Tinha o paredão lá, que ele faz, com várias meninas. Ele falava assim "você, você, você" e retirava as negras. Pensei "caramba", na primeira vez. Na segunda vez, ele fez a mesma coisa. Achei um absurdo isso, uma falta de respeito – contou.

Ela também falou de sua experiência com Glória Coelho, ex-esposa de Reinaldo:

– Não cheguei a entrar no casting dela porque meu booker falou: " Você não pode fazer parte desse casting. Mas a gente vai tentar apresentar você pra ela". Ele apresentou e tal, só que ela pegou meu composite (uma espécie de cartão de apresentação de modelos) e jogou no chão. Eu era new face, não tinha noção, não podia falar nada, porque, até então, ficava com medo, muito medo – completou ela, que foi exaltada nas redes sociais pela coragem em expôr. 

Assista ao vídeo:

Após o "exposed", o estilista apagou o post do quadrado preto. Procurada por Donna, sua assessoria ainda não se manifestou. 

À revista Veja, Reinaldo comentou a polêmica em uma nota: 

"Eu errei. Tenho consciência de que me faltou empatia e compreensão em relação às modelos negras e aos outros profissionais de moda. Desculpem-me. As recentes críticas e observações de quem se sentiu constrangido em algum casting, backstage ou desfile suscitaram autorreflexão. Eu vou mudar, assim como o sistema da moda será obrigado a mudar também", diz um trecho do texto.

À mesma publicação, Glória Coelho também enviou um comunicado em que disse que "sentia muitíssimo" e que prometia dar mais abertura à diversidade em sua empresa, dos cargos de direção aos desfiles. 

"Está nas nossas mãos desmantelar o racismo sistêmico", concluiu.

Porém, os relatos das modelos não são só sobre figurões da indústria. O racismo também é revelado em atitudes de outros profissionais que fazem parte desse mercado. Vai desde cabeleireiros que não sabem o que fazer com a textura de um cabelo black power a maquiadores que não acertam a base do tom de pele de mulheres negras. Comentários depreciativos sobre o tamanho dos lábios, dos narizes e até a pigmentação são normalizados, dizem elas.

 – O racismo já está nas estruturas erguidas da moda. Às vezes, é explícito e escancarado, como um elefante, em outras é pequeno, como uma formiga. Muitas vezes, é apenas debochado. Depende de quem o pratica e em que ambiente está – conta a top mineira Camila, de 22 anos. 

– Infelizmente, no decorrer da carreira, encontramos muitas pessoas dispostas a maldade, e tudo isso preciso ser curado. Acredito que a cura virá por meio da fala – afirma.

A repercussão inspirou outros depoimentos e escancarou problemas que existem há muito tempo. Para dar mais espaço ao debate, Cindy, Camila, Thayná e Natasha decidiram criar uma plataforma para valorizar o profissional negro no ramo fashion e incentivar eventuais denúncias de racismo. O perfil Pretos Na Moda entrou no ar na terça-feira (16) e soma 1,5 mil seguidores. Segundo as meninas, é uma ação coletiva:

 – Foi um movimento coletivo, que nasceu de maneira natural. No começo, éramos só modelos negros, porém, o mercado não é racista só com modelos, não. Outros profissionais se aliaram e estamos abertos para receber todos que se identificam com a causa e querem fazer parte disso conosco – sustenta Cindy.

No perfil, as organizadoras pretendem fornecer orientação e e a todos que arem por atos discriminatórios. A verdade é que a indústria da moda ou a ser cobrada de forma efetiva: o que tem feito, de fato, para combater o racismo"> 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