Oskar Metsavaht fundou a Osklen há 21 anos e, recentemente, ou a dedicar-se mais à arteDaniela Villar / Divulgação

A palavra sustentabilidade está cansando. O alerta é feito pelo gaúcho Oskar Metsavaht, que criou os fundamentos de desenvolvimento sustentável da Osklen há mais de 20 anos. Fundador e diretor de criação e estilo da marca, o designer esteve em Porto Alegre para palestrar na 7ª Feira Brasileira do Varejo no dia 29 de maio. Na sua fala, afirmou que "o novo luxo é a estética da ética". Para ele, a ética está em uma cadeia de produção transparente e justa, valores que são a cara do século 21.

Em entrevista exclusiva à Revista Donna, Metsavaht defende que a sustentabilidade seja parte da cultura de uma marca e não um mero jogo de marketing. Uma das pioneiras da moda sustentável no Brasil, a Osklen completou duas décadas no ano ado. Para celebrar a data, abriu seus dados para que o Instituto Coppead de istração da Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro quantificasse os impactos ambientais, sociais e culturais da marca e do Instituto-e, fundado em 2006 e presidido por Metsavaht. A organização idealiza e implementa projetos socioambientais com foco na promoção do desenvolvimento humano sustentável.

O levantamento revelou que, só na produção de pele de Piracuru, usada em 48% dos órios em couro da Osklen, mil famílias ribeirinhas já foram beneficiadas. Além disso, 27 toneladas de gases do efeito estufa deixaram de ser emitidos por ano.

Também em 2018, a marca lançou o conceito ASAP - As Sustainable as Possible (“tão sustentável quanto possível”). A sigla, na verdade, significa “as soon as possible” (“o mais rápido possível”). O trocadilho é uma referência que dá caráter de urgência ao tema da sustentabilidade.

Metsavaht, aos poucos, a a se dedicar a outras áreas além da moda. No ano ado, inaugurou o estúdio OM.art e o hotel Janeiro, ambos na capital fluminense. Na entrevista abaixo, ela fala sobre o novo luxo, sustentabilidade e a relação entre moda, arte e política.

O que você quer dizer com o “novo luxo é a estética da ética”?

Para mim, luxo não é exclusividade. Acho isso marqueteiro, mercadológico. Luxo não é brilho, não é status. A ética de um produto está em toda a cadeia por trás. Se ela é transparente, justa, se empodera, se cria qualidade de vida para as pessoas envolvidas e se há preocupação com os recursos naturais. A ética está também no design, em criar algo original. Considero esse novo luxo um valor do século 21. O luxo contemporâneo se encontra no equilíbrio entre qualidade, o esteticamente belo e uma origem sustentável social, ambiental e culturalmente.

Como você avalia o cenário da moda sustentável hoje, 20 anos depois de ter desenvolvido os fundamentos de sustentabilidade para a Osklen?

Percebo que nós, sociedade, e nós, designers, criadores, marcas, fizemos muito pouco nesses 20 anos. Só sabemos apontar e cobrar. “A indústria polui, a prefeitura não cuida”. Mas nós não mudamos nosso comportamento de consumo. Nossa decisão de compra ainda é baseada no símbolo de status e no tipo de consumo americano, que é comprar mais por menos. As indústrias, sim, mudaram, criaram práticas sustentáveis. Olha como hoje a gente tem materiais incríveis. E a Osklen e o Instituto-e fomentaram a indústria, com o desenvolvimento de PET reciclável, o algodão reciclável, o orgânico, tingimentos naturais. Aos poucos, as pessoas começam a entender a importância da cadeia.

Os millennials compreendem mais isso. Mas a palavra sustentabilidade está cansando. Quem é movido só pelo hype vai abandonar a ideia assim que outra tendência surgir. Por isso acho que sustentabilidade não tem que estar na imagem da marca, ela tem que fazer parte da sua cultura. É o que chamo de “as sustainable as possible as soon as possible” (“tão sustentável quanto possível o mais rápido possível”). A sustentabilidade é como a qualidade, ela tem que ser uma condição sine qua non (do latim, que significa "sem o qual não pode ser").

Democratização da moda é uma balela marqueteira para justificar uma escala que cria vários impactos sociais e ambientais".
OSKAR METSAVAHT
Fundador da Osklen

Você falou que luxo não é exclusividade. Mas os preços de algumas peças são iníveis para muitos brasileiros. Por que a moda sustentável é ível para poucos?

Moda não tem que ser ível para todo mundo porque não é a coisa mais importante. O que tem que ser ível a outras classes socioeconômicas é educação, saúde, cultura. Democratização da moda é uma balela marqueteira para justificar uma escala enorme de roupas que criam uma pegada (ecológica) e vários impactos sociais e ambientais. Moda democrática é cópia ou tem, na sua cadeia, provavelmente, questões ilegais como de mão de obra injusta. Outra questão: materiais de origem sustentável são inovação. E inovação é caro. As marcas não compram porque é caro, e as pessoas não compram porque não compreendem o valor da sustentabilidade. Ganhando em escala, os preços baixariam.

Por que as pessoas não valorizam"> 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