“Cozinha não é glamour”: chef Henrique Fogaça fala sobre sua carreira de sucesso na gastronomia

Rock n’ Roll e gastronomia. Essa é a combinação inusitada que melhor define Henrique Fogaça. Aos 47 anos, o chef divide a vida entre as cozinhas dos seus restaurantes Sal Gastronomia, Sal Grosso e Cão Véio, a banda Oitão, na qual é vocalista, o reality show gastronômico MasterChef, e a família.  

O interesse pela gastronomia surgiu depois de tentar duas faculdades, Arquitetura e istração, e de estar cansado de comer comida congelada quando foi morar em São Paulo com a irmã. Foi a receita de bife empanado da sua avó que despertou o cozinheiro que, hoje, está entre os mais conhecidos do Brasil.

Fogaça é um grande entusiasta da comida de casa, simples e bem feita. Para ele, nada é capaz de bater a combinação de arroz, feijão, bife acebolado e ovo frito. O prato feito típico brasileiro é o que faz o cozinheiro voltar às origens e lembrar dos almoços preparados pela avó quando era pequeno. 

No início da carreira, o chef conta que ava horas no Ceasa – Centro Estadual de Abastecimento – escolhendo os ingredientes que estavam disponíveis no dia e, a partir disso, ia para a frente do fogão fazer testes e mais testes. 

– Eu sempre tive muita criatividade e uma mente muito fértil. Saía de madrugada e ava a manhã na feira vendo o que tinha de ingrediente disponível. Eu não tinha medo de errar – comenta. 

Com o incentivo de amigos, Fogaça decidiu dar uma chance para a gastronomia profissional e foi buscar cursos. Seu primeiro negócio foi um food truck chamado Rei das Ruas. O sucesso foi tanto que foi convidado a comandar uma cafeteria que funcionaria em anexo à Galeria Vermelho, no Pacaembu. Assim, nasceu o Sal, com a proposta inicial de ser apenas um café, mas que foi crescendo, ganhando o público, e acabou se consolidando como um restaurante.

Quando questionado sobre o que ser roqueiro contribuiu para a construção da sua cozinha, Fogaça não pensou duas vezes e respondeu: "atitude". O estilo musical tem grande influência em sua vida desde os 12 anos de idade. Para ele, seu jeito contestador e a vontade de ir atrás do que quer foi o rock que lhe ensinou e, automaticamente, isso reflete em suas receitas. 

Por falar em criações, perguntamos ao chef qual seria a sua receita favorita criada por ele e a resposta foi muito simples:

– Não tem como responder, é como se eu tivesse que escolher qual é o meu filho favorito. É impossível. Tudo é feito com muito amor e respeito, todas são especiais – afirma. 

Não é segredo nenhum que o sal é importante na vida de Henrique Fogaça, já que o ingrediente dá nome a dois dos seus restaurantes e agora também é tema do seu mais novo livro O Mundo do Sal. O cozinheiro esteve em Porto Alegre para fazer o lançamento da publicação e conversamos com ele em exclusividade sobre sua trajetória, reality shows e, claro, muita gastronomia. 

Quando começou o seu interesse pela gastronomia?

Desde moleque eu gostava de comer, sempre fui comilão. Eu lembro de muitos momentos em família, na casa da minha avó. Ela fazia jantares e almoços maravilhosos para toda a família.  

Eu nasci em Piracicaba, no interior de São Paulo, mas com 8 anos fui para Ribeirão Preto. Lá eu encontrei um livro sobre sushi, comprei uns peixes e decidi fazer em casa, já que eu gostava muito de culinária japonesa, que recém estava chegando no Brasil, há pelo menos 30 anos.   

Quando eu fui morar na capital paulista com a minha irmã, em 1996, comia muita comida congelada devido a rotina corrida. Um dia me deu vontade de comer um bife empanado que minha avó fazia. Eu liguei para ela me ar a receita e assim eu fui pegando amor pela cozinha. Isso vai fazer quase 19 anos e a gastronomia mudou a minha vida da água para o vinho.  

Como você define a sua cozinha hoje?  

Eu não gosto muito de rótulos, mas é uma comida com ingredientes brasileiros. Uma cozinha contemporânea, que acaba trazendo técnicas de outras culinárias. É basicamente uma cozinha internacional, com comida boa e afetiva.  

Você acha que a sua paixão pelo rock e o fato de ter uma banda de hardcore te ajuda de alguma forma na cozinha?  

Sem dúvidas. Eu sou roqueiro antes de ser cozinheiro. Comecei a ouvir o estilo com uns 12 anos. O rock é algo muito contestador, de você fazer, de ir atrás e, automaticamente, isso veio para a minha carreira. Eu já tinha quase 25 anos quando comecei, já tinha feito duas faculdades pela metade, então, essa atitude do rock eu trouxe para a minha cozinha.  

De onde veio a ideia de ter o sal como protagonista do seu livro e qual a importância dele para a gastronomia?  

O sal é um ingrediente tão simples e tão comum no dia a dia de todo mundo. É milenar e traz muitas histórias culturais e sociais. Então, como o meu restaurante é o Sal, junto com o Rogério, que é pesquisador, resolvemos construir esse livro. É um ingrediente muito democrático, não é de hoje que está presente na mesa de qualquer pessoa. É um dos mais usados da gastronomia, pode-se dizer.

Por onde começa o seu processo de criação de um prato novo?  

No começo, eu tinha uma criatividade e uma mente muito fértil. Eu saía de madrugada fazendo compras, ava na feira de manhã, olhava o que tinha de ingrediente para decidir. Isso foi muito bom, porque eu não tinha medo de errar. Hoje, para criar um prato, sou muito mais cuidadoso. Quando a gente vai amadurecendo e tendo mais conhecimento, você fica mais , mas você tem também mais ferramentas. Hoje eu demoro muito mais para criar um prato do que há 15 anos. 

Mas, para criar, eu trabalho muito com as cores. Acredito que a gente coma com os olhos primeiramente, depois com o olfato e só então vem o paladar. Se a comida estiver ruim, no final das contas, não valeu nada essa apresentação, mas o mix de combinações e equilíbrio é muito importante.  

Há algum alimento que você não comeria de jeito nenhum?  

Tem algumas coisas bizarras, mas eu não tenho preconceito com qualquer ingrediente, exceto com animais muito exóticos, tipo morcego. Mas o grande ponto da minha carreira como cozinheiro, é descobrir o ingrediente, saber aproveitar ao máximo para fazer com que fique gostoso. 

Eu tenho um prato lá no Sal, há mais de 12 anos no cardápio, que é um ragu de javali. O javali é um porco do mato selvagem e que tem pouca gordura. Quando fui testar, fiz de várias formas e não estava contente com o resultado. É uma carne muito seca, tem muito músculo. Testei no forno, na a de pressão, até pensei em não colocar no menu. Mas pensei: “como cozinheiro, tenho que fazer esse prato ficar bom”. Testei mais algumas vezes e fiz um marinado com legumes, vinho tinto, usei a banha de porco para trazer suculência e dar mais gordura pra essa carne seca.   

Como você avalia a relação das pessoas com a gastronomia hoje? Você acredita que as pessoas sempre dedicaram essa atenção ou isso é algo que tem surgido recentemente?  

Mudou muito. E, de uma certa forma, o MasterChef e os realities de gastronomia acordou as pessoas para esse ato de comer, de cozinhar, de conhecer e aprender técnicas. A comida é um momento de compartilhar, um momento de empatia. 

Os realities têm esse papel social de ajudar na democratização da gastronomia, além de aprender a cozinhar e conhecer ingredientes. Há alguns anos atrás, era algo inível, que remetia à alta gastronomia e que o cidadão comum não tinha o. Eu prego muito na minha cozinha que é a comida para todos. É questão de humanidade, todo mundo tem que poder ter o e experimentar os ingredientes.  

Qual seria o seu conselho para quem está começando na profissão"> 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